Maison Margiela's Spring/Summer 2024 Collection by John Galliano

February 17, 2024

In the dimly lit streets of Paris, under the enchanting glow of a full moon and a film noir setting, Maison Margiela unveiled its 2024 Artisanal couture collection, transporting viewers into a mesmerizing realm inspired by the visionary works of Hungarian-French artist Brassaï. John Galliano, the creative force behind Maison Margiela, orchestrated a captivating spectacle that delved deep into the essence of Brassaï's voyeuristic photographs, revealing a world of mystery, allure, and unspoken narratives. Art at its finest.

The show's setting beneath Pont Alexandre III provided the perfect backdrop for Galliano's exploration of Brassaï's nocturnal Paris. The iconic bridge, bathed in moonlight, became a stage where Galliano's vision came to life, inviting viewers to immerse themselves in a realm where reality and fantasy intertwine seamlessly.


As models graced the runway, clad in garments that echoed the whimsical yet haunting aesthetics of Brassaï's photographs, it became evident that Galliano had meticulously curated every aspect of the show to pay homage to the artist's legacy. From the enigmatic figures wandering the streets to the haunting allure of the nocturnal landscape, every element spoke volumes about the hidden depths of human emotion and desire.

Maison Margiela's latest collection delves into the fascinating intersection of artistic expression and the act of dressing, drawing inspiration from the relationship between artists and their anatomical lay dolls. This synthesis is evident in the doll-like accents that adorn the garments, from the whimsical stripe-tease of shirting dresses to the structured tweed skirt-suits. The collection evokes a sense of enchantment reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland and the haunting allure of broken dolls, showcasing Galliano's mastery in transforming whimsical themes into high fashion statements.

Drawing inspiration from Brassai's portraits from the 1920s and 1930s, the designer revisited the Belle Époque, the period that inspired him the most, highlighting an hourglass silhouette throughout the collection. Waists were exaggeratedly marked by 19th-century corsets, which were also worn by men.

Amidst the fashion scene this season, there is a tension brewing between artistic innovation and commercial success. Models including Leon Dame, who has become something of a star of the brand's runway shows, walked the show wearing a bustier and tailored pants, in a look that married both John Galliano and Maison Margiela's aesthetics.

Drawing inspiration from sources as diverse as Mad Hutter and Alice in Wonderland, Galliano crafts a whimsical and poetic tableau that transports viewers to the opulent world of Parisian brothels and the delicate allure of porcelain dolls. Each ensemble is a masterpiece in its own right, evoking the spirit of Belle Époque extravagance while imbuing it with a modern sensibility.

You might also like